Marina Moscone Pre-Fall 2021

Marina Moscone Pre-Fall 2021

Marina Moscone has always liked the idea of a uniform. She doesn’t wear the same thing every day; it’s more about figuring out the foundation of her style so she can build upon it. For the designer herself that often starts with a shirtdress over trousers, or maybe a curvy suit with flat sandals, and she’ll experiment from there. Pre-fall found her thinking more literally, though, with familiar nods to school uniforms: pleated kilts, rugby shirts, shrunken blazers. Her moodboard was pinned with photos of her mother as a schoolgirl in South Africa, while Moscone’s grandfather’s professional rugby career inspired the bold striped rugby shirts. She typically spends her summers in Italy with her family, but due to COVID, she hasn’t left New York in a year; understandably, she’s had them on her mind.

In another designer’s hands, a reworked kilt or rugby might lean overly trendy, but Moscone’s were reliably artful and elegant. The opening look was a twist on her signature overcoat, now spliced with box pleats at the hem (and styled with socks and loafers). Other tunics and blazers had plaid panels tacked to the hips, like trompe l’oeil skirts. What you can’t glean from the lookbook is that those collaged items were all cut from the same material: The olive wool tunic, for instance, was backed with the same emerald and yellow plaid that appears on its “skirt.” Moscone created those double-sided wools in spite of the fact that most people won’t notice their detail on an iPhone; more importantly, it’s the kind of refined touch her customer appreciates.

Another detail will be more obvious: the patches and embroidered quotes on a blazer and a duvet-like “art coat” in ivory satin. There’s a bird of paradise flower, Moscone’s favorite South African bloom; an elephant, symbolizing wisdom and persistence; a honeysuckle rose flower, which Moscone’s grandmother used to call her; and two portraits of a little boy and girl, Moscone’s parents as kids. The coat is quilted over in places and has scribble-like printing and fringe, as if a child went crazy with a box of art supplies. Moscone hopes it will offer both comfort and uplift—a combination also found in her new crinkly tops and pajama pants, a welcome WFH update.

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